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SouthWest Florida Marine Aquarium Society

New SCA- Rimless 150 tank build

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Just got my new Rimless SCA 150  and my center show pcs that I had custom built for me plus I went with a 20'' Synergy External Overflow box!! I am just waiting on a few items from GHL like there 2.1 dosing pump and a few other things and the hard plumbing will began!  I already got in the ProfiLuix4 Ultimate kit with extras and two nice show corner pieces from Vidarock.. I am very exited to get this massive project up and running b/c this tank should last me a long time..


Going to be starting my build thread  very soon on - www.reef2reef.com 

All you have to do is just look up FLSharkvictim and start following me on my profile. 


Here are few shots of the new build and some of the gear.







s-l1600 (4).jpg

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On 2/23/2018 at 8:29 PM, wiszmaster said:


Nice controller you got there... I was going to message you on R2R about the rock - looks nice!


On 2/23/2018 at 1:42 PM, nottarts23 said:

Nice looking can't wait to see it up and running

Welcome to our club.

What's your name and where are you located?

Matt S.

My name Matt and it's very nice to meet you! 

Edited by FLSharkvictim

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Since my last post on here I have taken a back seat and thought about what kind of system do I want to run, Fish Only Tank, LPS tank,  Mixed Reef or an all SPS tank... For this build, I will be aiming at an all SPS Dominate type tank for my 150. So I had to get a bigger sump and change all my lighting and I have sold all of my GHL gear. In return, I went out and grabbed the new  #ApexEL Aquarium controller w/ the #LMK mod and the #WXM mod to control my two MP40's.  Plus, I got the new #NYOS #TORQ Media base reactor since I will be running a Turbo Algae Scrubber which the sump MFG is currently doing some modifications to my sump in order to fit the scrubber since it will all be hard plumbed in.. Here are a few new pixs of some goodies..

ApexEL Controller.jpeg

ApeXEL & LDK MOD W: MP40.jpeg



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As far as my sump & my matching 10-gallon ATO Reservoir, here is an example of what it's going to look like from Synergy but my sump will not have a refuge!! 




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Hello everyone, I am back with a brand new build that I have been designing for over 2 years! 
My name is Matt Paul and I was born and raised in Clearwater, FL.. I have grown up around the Ocean and going down to the FL KEYS all of my life. I first become an Open water diver in 1990 and an Advanced diver in 1994 and from there on I had a massive obsession with Reef tanks and corals. Right around 2004 thru 2008 I worked at my buddies LFS which really helped me keep a stable & a successful reef tank over the last 10 yrs. I just got done tearing it down last week since I now have everything I need to start my new SCA 150 build. Let get into my old tank first before we get into the new one and all of the Equipment that I have specially chosen for my new system. I have pretty much spent almost my entirety of my life fully immersed in the aquarium industry. From working as an aquarium service technician in my local aquarium shop to doing installs and Maintenence. I started my adventure into reef keeping and growing SPS corals in the mid-'90s. I have always had a love & passion for the ocean and its inhabitants. I have had the privilege of diving on some of the most beautiful dive wrecks & reefs around the world and really getting a chance to view these corals in their natural environment. Here are some pictures of my first tank that was over 100 gallons my 120 reef ready specs being the following 48''x24''x24''. 


Here was my mixed reef at 3 yrs 

3yr tank.jpg30 gallon

AE TECH sump w/ a refuge:

AE Sump.jpg


120 mixed Reef @ 5yrs old


Edited by FLSharkvictim

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  Well, I finally wanted stronger lights and some leds, so I bought a pair of Aqua Illumination Hydra Twenty Sixes HD LED's for the 120 mixed reef. As you can see everything in the tank is thriving big time. Also, I hard plumbed the 120 as well. 


My tank at 7 yrs 


Edited by FLSharkvictim

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Here some of the last pictures that I took before I started to break everything down and selling off all of my livestock! The only thing I I kept was my Ultra Blue T Max Clam which is at my LFS

120 TANKEN 6:25:18.JPG


Spongodes MontiporaJPG.JPG

Spong Monit.JPG

Octo & Frogspawn.JPG

Large Colony Moniti.JPG

Edited by FLSharkvictim

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''First, I would like to start with my motto when it comes to this hobby - I ALWAYS use quality products, I believe that 50% increase in coast is definitely worthwhile, even if you only gain another 5% of the product reliability especially if you have a mature tank with years of time and effort invested like many of us do. Keep in mind that your tank is a place where water and electricity come together''
Ok, let's start this new SCA Rimless 150 build thread, with what size and kind of tank I went with for the new build. After going back and forth with a RESEA 725xl or an SCA 150, I decided to go with the SCA tank! They are all made with Starfire glass and their tanks that are 12mm thick and made very solid. I knew from all of my experience that I wanted to try a more SPS Dominate type tank this time around w/ a minimalist type scape! Also, SCA builds a really awesome stand and I will be floating my canopy with all of my AI Hydra HD LEDs from the ceiling... Here is my SCA Rimless 150 that I have chosen and it was custom drilled for a Synergy External Overflow box and I bought a stand as well..  




Installing 1.5'' unions for the Synergy .jpg

ExtOverflow box2.jpeg


Cabinet Furnture Grade.JPG

SCA 150.jpg

1.5 DRAINS 3.jpg

My Returns.jpg

Sch 80 fittings & Cepex & Spears Vavles.JPG

Edited by FLSharkvictim

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I would just like to go over quickly my main filtration on this build, I will be running a Turbo Scrubber! When I ordered my sump from Synergy Reef Systems CL-44 sump,  Rick over at Synergy will be custom making me a bracket in order to fit one of Bud's Rev 4 L-2 Turbo Scrubber.


Just in case, here are the Specs for the L-2 model that's above! 
Rated for up to 2-4 cubes per day! 

upload_2018-12-29_20-12-3.png upload_2018-12-29_20-12-24.png

Bud Carlson - What is an Algae Scrubber?
If you have never heard of an Algae Scrubber before, you're about to be like "what?" So you take this screen, rough it up, put light on it, and run water over it and presto! You get algae. Guess what? Algae grow by turning nutrients like Nitrates and Phosphates into...um...more algae. I was trying to make that sound really magical but that's pretty much it. So algae grow, which sucks out the by-products tank inhabitants produce. Seems pretty simple, right? EXACTLY so why aren't you running one?? Here is all of the info for Algae Scrubbers:


Edited by FLSharkvictim

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Let's keep this thread going, SHALL WE!! We will get into #AvastMarine Auto Top Off system that I went with! I selected #Avast Kalk Stirrer and I will show you differnt ways you can run this: 

Avast Marine on choosing the correct dosing pump for there Auto Top Offs:
One question we frequently receive concerns which of our two choices of automatic top-off pumps is best. Of course, the short answer is, "it depends". We have two styles of pump available, a peristaltic pump and a diaphragm pump. The peristaltic pump works by means of a motor slowly turning a rolling mechanism which pushes water through a section of tubing by pinching the tubing flat with a roller, and pushing that bit of water along until the next roller in the assembly contacts the tubing again, etc. The result is a slow but very consistent flow rate. The diaphragm pump works differently. It is very similar to an air pump, where a pair of flat rubber disks called diaphragms are actuated one at a time, pulling water (or air) in on one side, then pushing out the other side as the diaphragm closes. Similar to how a heart pumps blood. The main difference between the two for top-off purposes concerns the
ability of the peristaltic pump to prevent backflow when the pump is powered off. In some cases, a top-off reservoir may be situated so that it is higher than the sump that it fills. In this case, if a pump like a diaphragm pump draws water from the reservoir, pushes it through tubing to the sump, and then turns off, the water will continue to siphon "downhill", potentially leading to overfilling of the sump. This is because the diaphragms are partially open when the pump is off. Conversely, the peristaltic pump's roller mechanism simply stops in place, and one roller is always in contact with the tubing, pinching it
closed. Therefore, no water can pass while the pump is off. A peristaltic pump is the best choice when there is potential for unwanted siphoning.

1ST this is how I will be running my @AVAST Marine #Kalk #Stirrer and my diaphragm pump off my Mixing Station. As far as the pumps, I went with one of Avast Marine Diaphram pump to transfer my fresh RODI WATER FROM THE FRESH barrel to my K1 Stirrer which will be installed under my tank! I went with the 

Or you can run it off your ATO reservoir.

My Avast Marine ATO system and Avast Diaphragm pump with the Digital Output for my ProfiLux4 controller.


This little diaphragm pump is an excellent choice for automatic top-off duty. Unlike other diaphragm pumps available, this little powerhouse can push water to 60psi (~130ft high). It can also safely run dry, unlike conventional powerheads. It is quiet and runs on 12v DC power. Flow rate is approximately 400mL/min, but note that it is not rated for continuous duty nor saltwater applications. This means for intermittent use (as in ATO usage) it is great, but we do not recommend it for use as a calcium reactor feed pump, for example. It can be used in conjunction with a kalk stirrer, but only to push fresh water into the stirrer. We do not recommend pulling kalkwasser through the pump, as the high pH may shorten the life of the rubber diaphragms.

Optional backup float valve installation The backup float is designed to prevent the ATO feed pump from adding too much water to the system should the main switch box fail. If the pump somehow remains active, the water level will rise high enough for the float to seal the end of the ATO feed tube. This is a mechanical seal which can hold back considerable pressure from a pump or even a pressurized water source. Care should be taken to test the hookup to the valve, mostly to ensure that when the tube is closed, backpressure from the pump does not blow off a tube or fitting somewhere between the pump and float valve. For this reason, we do not recommend using peristaltic (dosing) pumps with the backup valve, since they often produce considerable pressure, and can rupture the tubing between the backup valve and the pump. Also, note that an unsealed kalkwasser stirrer (such as our K1 or K2 models) is incompatible with the backup valve. This is because the valve will shut off water flow to the aquarium, but the ATO pump will continue to add water to the kalk stirrer, possibly causing an overflow at the stirrer. 1. Remove the rubber grommet from the ATO magnetic mounting bracket, and replace with the float valve. 2. Insert 1/4” polyethylene or similar size & material tubing into the top of the float valve. This should be connected directly to your ATO feed pump. Check to ensure that all tubing connections are secured against pressure buildup. 3. Test the ability of the float valve to safely cut off the water flow from the ATO pump. With the ATO switch activated, simply lift up on the float valve and check that all water input stops. Maintenance 1. The ATO kit is designed to require no regular maintenance. The tube should be checked a few times per year to ensure that any sponges or algae do not grow large enough to completely block airflow. 2. The optional float valve contains a narrow opening for water flow. Every few months, check that this opening is free of debris or buildup, and perform a simple emergency shutoff test.






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 I would like to talk about my saltwater mixing station and the equipment that I used to build it. 
I finally found a really good company who had them on sale with FREE SHIPPING so I grabbed a pair of 25 gallon Ace Roto Mold 25 Vertical Water containers. The company is called Rural King Farm store and I added a link below in case your looking for some bad #$#$ Barrels. They are UV resistant so they will not leave any residue behind like your Brute containers will do unless you clean them. - 

First, here is a shot of my 1st mixing station w/ a Panworld pump I originally made out of Bute cans and it worked ok. The only problem with going with these Brute garbage cans is they leave a lot of residue ones you're done mixing your salt behind which means you have to clean then vs going with something like one I did on my revised mixing station below: 


My Two 25 gallon Storage Vertical Containers for my new Mixing station:


@Bulk Reef Supply -6 stage RODI w/ Aquatech Booster Pump &Pwr Supply.

Some of the PVC parts, fittings and my new 25 gallons Ace Roto Barrels 


My 150 GPD Water Saver Upgrade Kit on your RO/DI System


What I love about this upgrade which I highly recommend s that your Water Saving Upgrade Kits is it's the most recommended RODI upgrade. If you have proper pressure (65+ PSI) we highly recommend installing the kit, because it will produce water twice as fast as a standard 75 GPD or 100 GPD membrane while cutting the amount of wastewater in half. The BRS 150 GPD or 200 GPD Water Saver Upgrade Kit will increase the production of any BRS 75 GPD reverse osmosis system to 150 GPD or 100 GPD RO membrane up to 200 GPD without having to use any additional water. With the installation of this kit water production will increase from approximately three gallons per hour to six gallons per hour! It does require 65psi or more into the first membrane in order to function properly and be efficient. If your home's water pressure is less then the recommended PSI do not worry, adding a booster pump is simple and only takes a couple of minutes. After I got my barrels I started looking on this forum and came up with my own custom 50-gallon mixing station and stand that I build out of plywood and 2x4s. See instead of doing one large water change like 90% of reefers on here do, I dose in small increments of about 2 gallons a day. Do you see how I have that white John Guest 1/4'' fitting that was installed on the saltwater barrel? 


I have a GHL dosing pump which one stepper motors is connected to this John Guest fitting that feeds the NSW from the mixing station and pushes it into my Synergy Sump! The other Stepper motor on the GHL #MaxiSA dosing pump removes the OSW and I have it where it runs off into the background into my drain off.

The acrylic rod that's 1/4'' in size and that gets connected to one of the stepper motors to pull the NWS out w/ 2 of these acrylic rods in order for me run it about 2inch from the bottom of the barrel: 


Here is what my Saltwater Mixing station looks like after I replumbed it along with setting up my 6 Stage RODI w/ dual membrane upgrade. I went with one of Reef Octo return pumps for the mixing station and for mixing the salt. I went with one of the most Reliable pumps on the market today in my opinion, the- The Reef Octo VarioS4 return pump. 

Installing the DI first since I was alone doing this! 

Installed the Mainstage and just need to install the booster pump since my water pressure was only coming out at 45pSI. If your water pressure is below 45pSI, you will require to run a booster pump in order for the RODI to work properly, if you not you are wasting your money. 


I just need to finish up my wire management and my mixing station will have been completed, hard plumbed with a Reef Octo VarioS4 return pump! 


50 gallon station.jpeg

Edited by FLSharkvictim

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Here is a list of most of my Equipment that I will be running my new SCA 150. 

SCA Rimless 150 that was Custom Drilled
Synergy Reef System CL-44 SUMP w/ out a Refuge
Synergy Matching 10 gallon ATO Reservoir
Synergy 20'' External Overflow Box w/ 3 1.5inch drains
Buds Turbo Aquatics L-2 Turbo Scrubber (On order)
Reef Octo Regal Protein Skimmer 150 EXT

2 - Orphek Atlantik Compact V4 (Gen 2) LED fixtures
ReefBrite LED strip 
Aqua-tech UV ultraviolet Sterilizer 25(w)
BRS Dual Reactor to run GFO & Carbon
BRS Peristaltic Pump 1.1 ML Per Min
Reef Brite Strip Led Light 50/50 - 48''
Dr Tim's One & Only Saltwater Live Nitrfying Bacteria
Avast Marine AUTO TOP OFF System
Avast Marine Diaphragm Pump
Avast Marine 4 multi Purpose Magnet Mount
Avast KALK Stirrer ( K-1 MODEL)
2 TUNZE Turbelle Nanostreams 6055's
EcoTech Marine Vectra L-1 for the a main Return pump

Ecotech Marine Vectra M-1 for the manifold
EcoTech Marine mp40QWD powerhead (4500gph)
EcoTech Marine MP40QWD powerhead (4500gph)
EcoTech Marine - Reeflink
EcoTech Marine Battery Back Up
EcoTech Marine Battery Booster
All Sch 80 Fittings --
Cepex Ball Valves ---
Spears Gate Valves---
Red 1.5inch PVC / Blue 3/4'' PVC pipe and 1'' RED PVC

Edited by FLSharkvictim

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Let's get into my Aquarium controller and how I am going to be mounting everything. I know a lot of people were asking me how I am going to run all of my controllers etc. I am currently working on 1 of my 2 custom electrical panels that I bought from @MarineDepot. I will be installing my ApexEL modules and my @AVAST Marine breakout box and all of my Apex gear and for my other electrical panel will be for all of my Ecotech Marine controllers, Tunze Controllers, Reef Octo Controller and hide all of my power supplies behind the 2nd panel so everything will be hidden as far as  cords. 
Control panel.jpeg

Apex Panel.jpeg


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1 fixture down and 1 to go! I decided to go with a pair of the new #Orphek Atlantik Compact V4 (Gen 2) LED fixtures which has 42 LEDs that range from 380nm to 850nm that include full progressive dimming from 0-100%. Plus, I bought a pair of there #Orphek Mounting legs. Ones I get my other Fixture on Friday I will post more pictures of these incredible lights.



Stay Connected w/ me here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/FLSharkvictim

Orphek Compact LED fixture.jpeg

Orphek compact.jpeg



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Very cool build! how are you liking the Marine Depot electrical panels?


Love the sump choice (we have matching CL44s and 10gal ATO reservoirs with the exception of the refugium baffle!), and an additional question: what was your decision basis for the change from GHL to Apex controller?

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8 hours ago, zyphen said:

Very cool build! how are you liking the Marine Depot electrical panels?


Love the sump choice (we have matching CL44s and 10gal ATO reservoirs with the exception of the refugium baffle!), and an additional question: what was your decision basis for the change from GHL to Apex controller?



Good question! First, my CL- 44 will not have a refuge since I will be running a protein skimmer and a Turbo Algae scrubber. 

As far as the Panels, I am going to buy 2 of them! 1 for all of my new Apex gear and modules and the other panel will have all of my Ecotech Marine Vortechs and Vectra controllers, Reef Octo Controller and 2 Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6055 controllers installed on the front of the panel. Plus, I am planning on hiding all of my power strips in the back, so everything will look nice and tight. 


Now the question why I sold all of my GHL gear, I had a family emergency and needed to come up with some quick cash, so I sold it in 30 minutes on ebay. I can tell you one thing,  who ever was the buyer got one hell of a deal since I had a ton of extras that I tossed in. Anyways, back on my feet and decided that I wanted to go back to all Apex - No more then that... Thank you for following the thread :)...Cant wait to see this sump!!!  I talked to Rick from Synergy last weekend and he said that my Sump should be ready at the end of the month for the final stage of quality control. Mine will look like the one in the back. 

Pix of a CL-34 AND A CL-44


Edited by FLSharkvictim

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I would like to quickly talk about the Protein Skimmer I choose to run my SCA 150 w/ a 40-gallon Synergy Sump! I have been at this a long time if you have read this thread and I have been through my share of skimmers in my time but the #ReefOcto REGAL Protein skimmer caught my eye especially since they took on a 3rd part pump called. I was trying to decide to go with either a Reef Octo Space saver or a Regal 150 INT Protein Skimmer and I went with the  Regal 150 INT since I have plenty of room on my CL-44 synergy sump. I have plenty of room to run the skimmer pump on the outside of the skimmer vs inside of the skimmer. I just feel it's so much easier to do any maintenance on your VarioS DC pump... Anyways, here are some specs and pictures. 


BRS Recommended for tanks up to:

  • Heavy Bioload (Most Common) - 100 Gallons
  • Medium Bioload - 150 Gallons
  • Light Bioload - 210 gallons


Reef Octopus In Sump 10" Protein Skimmer from Reef Octopus - with a controllable VarioS DC pumps to process more or less water, depending on your setup.

  • Footprint - 11.4" x 7.5″
  • Height - 22.6″
  • Recommended Water Height: 6"-8"

Regal 150 INT Protein Skimmer






Regal INTL #6.JPG

Regal INTL #1.JPG

Regal 150.JPG

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Nice build with some quality ideas and products.  I have a question on how will the lid of the skimmer and overflow switch will be attached to the control panel to allow for the lid to be cleaned? 


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