Jump to content
SouthWest Florida Marine Aquarium Society

Paul

Members
  • Content Count

    431
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Paul

  • Rank
    Reef Addict

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    North Port
  1. RedSea Aptasia-X will kill it, aptasia or mojano.
  2. I have the Air,Water&Ice - Typhoon III and they just replaced one of the standard carbon inserts with the chloramine carbon filter... no new canister required.
  3. Paul

    Purple Sponge

    I find a few of those orange fibrous sponges, the ones that air dry very quickly, those I don't attempt. I use to walk past them, but after some of your post, I now tear them open to find the occasional crab. (Interesting that crabs make a home in them. I wonder if its just a safe haven for the crab or if there is some symbiotic thing going on) The reds and this purple may have been on the beach for some hours, but they are pretty dense sponges, not at all squishy, and the ones I retrieve are always wrapped in large bundles of wet seaweed that kept them wet. Time will tell if they continue to live or not. It's only fair I can keep something alive, cause it sure isn't SPS
  4. A few times I have ventured down to Caspersen Beach in Venice after a storm and found a few interesting things to add to my tank. In the past I have turned up a few red sponges, but on my last trip I located an interesting looking purple sponge. For lack of a better place to add it, I wedged it between two rocks at mid tank just to hold it in place while I decided where I might place it. After a few weeks, the rough areas on the top have smoothed over and it actually seems to have encrusted a bit on my rock, and looks like its growing. Each "stack" has a small hole in the top and if you look very close in my tank, each hole has a tiny transparent tube extending a bit above the sponge. It's about 2" tall and about an 1.5" across. I hope it continues to do well, it's a pretty unique find for me... https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8477/29197180083_ba632b9e79_b.jpg
  5. Skimmers pull dissolved organics (doc) from the water, which is to small to get trapped in a filter sock. On the inverse, particles large enough to get trapped in a filter sock are to heavy/large to adhere to the micro bubbles in a skimmer and make it to the collection cup, which is why the bottom of your skimmer gets coated with detritus over time.
  6. I'd always heard that having to many Porcelain crabs would blow a seam :lol:/> Congratulations on the new tank ! ...though I'm really sorry to hear the circumstance that forced it ahead of plan. I wanna come see it after it's established. We wandered down to Venice beach this morning after your prompt. There wasn't near as much wash up as I expected, but after a bit of a hike we found a short stretch that had a good amount of washed up vegetation, and a little digging turned up a couple of nice sponges, same species as my little red one. I have them in my tank now making sure they will recoup. One of them is yours whenever you want it.
  7. Anyone have a Strawberry Shortcake Acropora frag for sale or have one they would be willing to sell me a frag from ? Thanks!
  8. Was in Port Charlotte this afternoon. Texted and called ...no response. Will try again another time
  9. Chris, I live close to you, I'd be interested in the ORA Joe. Prices ?
  10. I would not run a UV sterilizer on a reef tank that is strong enough to eliminate ich. UV sterilizers are rated by uw/cm2, which signifies the amount of radiation, based on wattage and water contact time. In order to help control algae in a reef tank, you want a UV sterlizer rated at 30,000-45,000 uw/cm2. In order to kill ich while it's in the free floating stage, you need a UV sterlizer rated at 75,000 to 90,000, which at that strength, will also kill your reefs planktonic food.
  11. I'm running the Hydra 26 HDs suspended 18 inches over the water... Right now mine come on at 10am and have a two hour ramp up, on full from 12pm to 8pm, and two ramp down to full off at 10pm. When they are full on the spectrum is: UV - 80% Violet - 60% Royal Blue 88% Blue 80% Green 35% Deep Red 15% White 30% I added a green montipora to my tank and it went brown pretty quickly. I've moved it high hoping it will color back up, so I may need to raise my settings. Red Sea is now shipping AI Hydras with their MAX systems and have some recommendations posted somewhere... I saw them posted once, but have not been able to locate them since. They run theirs pretty hot, over driving the blues at like 110% or so, but turning off red and green (to avoid algae). I believe their schedule was like 4 hour full on with 4 hour ramps, but I'm doing that from my less than photographic memory I believe theirs are also mounted much closer to the water than mine. I'll have to keep looking. <edit> Found it - https://aquatropica.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/4664-MAX-E-Series-LED-Manual_EN_DE_FR_JP_CHN_V16B.pdf
  12. Paul

    Beach Finds

    The sponge is a small tree shaped fellow about an inch and a half tall, bright orange, and lots of small branches kinda like a bridsnest coral shape. Be a shame to see him die. btw Ron, after your last beach report from Sanibel, I searched all over for Porcelain crabs... either they were not there or I just don't know how to hunt them down.
  13. I wandered down to Venice Beach this morning just to see what Colin washed up and came back with a few small sponges completely intact as well as a few gorgonians (real thin purple trees). I have them circulating in a bucket in the garage at the moment... anyone ever have any luck adding these to their reef ?
  14. Paul

    Ich?

    That is not true. Ich drops from the fish to become cyst on your substrate, LR, etc. The cyst ruptures into free-swimming parasites that burrow into your fish, grow to the white spots you see, then fall off the fish to form cyst and start the cycle over again. No where in this cycle does ich become dormant so if for any reason the cycle is interrupted, the ich is eliminated. You are correct that the best and most comfortable method for your fish is to isolate them to a medicated quarantine tank to kill the ich while your reef tank sits long enough with no fish available to host the parasites and they die off. However, it is entirely possible once an outbreak is encountered for fish to build up an immunity to the parasite and the ich dissipates. As long as you do not see a repeat of the spots within about 60+ days, its a safe bet your fish have beat the ich and it becomes safe to add more fish again. Capt Dan... I'd dearly love to have a Coral Beauty, but I already have a Flame Angel, so I have passed them up for the very reason you discovered... they don't generally play well with other angels
  15. I have the Air, Water, Ice Reefkeeper Typhoon III and I'm very happy with it. I had them replace one of the standard filters with a carbon block for chlormines, something you may or may not need depending on your water supply. In addition to the RO/DI output, mine has a RO tap I use for making drinking water. They come with an auto shut off valve if they detect back pressure so you can hook one directly to a float valve if you like ( I have a float valve mounted in a 5 gallon bucket so I can turn on RODI supply and forget it ) http://airwaterice.com/accessories/ro-unit-parts/float-valve.html He also includes all the tubing and hardware required to connect it up, as well as a TDS meter. It's a pretty nice setup IMO. http://airwaterice.com/reefkeepers-rodi.html OR you may want to go the WANT TO BUY forum and ask if any members have a RO/DI system for sale --> http://www.swfmas.com/forum/index.php?/forum/37-want-to-buy-equipment-livestock/
×
×
  • Create New...